Demystifying Rug Terminology for Consumers

How does someone go about learning what to expect when they are looking for a new Oriental rug?? Why should they believe what they are being told by the person trying to sell them something??  It’s sort of like walking in to a car dealership looking for a new car and not knowing anything about cars.  It’s a big purchase! How can you be sure you’re making the right decision? How do you know you’re not being taken? How do you know which car is the right car for you?

That’s where I come in!  I am here to help demystify some rug terminology popular with rug dealers and give you some advance pointers that will help the process along. 

Whether you are a rug cleaner trying to give your clients some advice, or you are a consumer looking for some useful information, I hope you will find the following helpful:

Age Terminology of Rugs

Antique - 100 years and older

This does not mean that you automatically will spend thousands upon thousands of dollars for this age group. Only some rugs appreciate in value. What is *does* mean is that you will need to ask if the rug has dry rot or prior repairs. Inspect for excessive wear, broken foundation threads and replacement fringes.  Be wary of old rugs that look new.

Semi-Antique - 50 to 99 years old

This age group is still fairly easy to find, so don’t be afraid to comparison shop! Like buying a car, the more information you have up front, the better the deal will be. Know the average price range for a particular kind of rug ahead of time, and don’t be afraid to tell a rug dealer that you’ve seen it somewhere else for less. In this economy, you’ll find bargains you didn’t know existed!

Vintage - 20-49 years old

This age group is interesting. Post-embargo Persian rugs will probably be sub-standard, while rugs from other countries may be better than average for their own regions.  You just have to get a feel for what you like and go with it. Inspect for run colors or rugs that look like they have been unraveled and overcast (shortened) at the ends.

New - 0 to 19 years old

Quicker, faster and cheaper is how rugs from this age group are manufactured.  Always remember that you get what you pay for…unless you overpay.  Ask how the rug is constructed or put together.  Is it woven or tufted?  Does it have a lining on the back?  Knotted or woven rugs are going to last. Tufted rugs are held together with glue and will only last as long as the glue will. Not to mention the nasty odor sometimes associated with the off-gassing of tufted rugs. 

Classification Terminology of Rugs

Tribal – Small rugs by nature and usually oddly shaped and coarsely woven. These rugs are typically woven by nomadic people and are true one-of-a-kind pieces. The color palette tends to be limited and the designs are geometric. (common: Beluch, Turkoman)

Village – These rugs are woven in utilitarian sizes. They are occasionally misshapen and are usually colorful and pleasant to look at. The quality of the weave will vary depending on the skill level of the at-home weaver. The patterns are more curvilinear than their tribal cousins, but are still quite geometric. (common: Hamadan, Herez)

City – These rugs are woven by skillful weavers, in factories, on permanent looms with a foreman in charge to oversee the speed and quality of the weaving being produced. They are typically intended for export and they come in various “American” sizes. They are fine in quality and fancy in design. (common: Tabriz, Kerman)

Palace – Huge in size, very complex in design, and very fine in quality. These rugs used to be woven by Royal commission and are a rarity. If a rug at a dealer is labeled “Palace”, most likely it is simply a reference to the fact that it is an oversized, fine carpet.

Country of Origin Terminology

Persian – Made in Iran

Turkish – Made in Turkey

Indian – Made in India

Chinese – Made in China

Pakistani – Made in Pakistan

Afghani – Made in Afghanistan

Caucasian – Made in the Caucasus Mountains between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea

Indo-Persian – Made in India, but in a Persian motif

Sino-Persian – Made in China, but in a Persian motif

Paki-Persian – Made in Pakistan, but in a Persian motif

Oriental – from the East

Occidental – from the West

There are many other rug weaving countries: Peru, Egypt, Greece, Spain, France, Romania, Morocco, Mexico, the United States, etc.  Their rugs may not be as commonly found in an everyday retail rug store.

Construction Terminology of Rugs

Tufted - Latex Back, Cloth Back, Glued Hems
Knotted - Warp & Weft Foundation, Pile
Woven - Flatweaves, Reversibles, No Pile
Bordered -Seams, Hot-Melt Seaming Tape, Specialty Binding

Category Terminology of RugsBroadlooms - Wall-To-Wall, Bound Remnants
Machine-Made - Axminster, Wilton, Velvet, Karastan, Spanish Contemporary
Hand-Made - Oriental, Flatweave, Needlepoint, Hooked, Braided, Reversible
Customs - Tufted, Seamed, Bordered, Specialty Materials, Designer Class

Aside from knowing the SIZE and COLOR of the rug you need, there will always be certain determining factors that you will have to keep in mind before buying.  Do you have a dog?  Do you have three dogs?  Small children?  Teenagers? A home by the beach?  Depending on your lifestyle, you may want to forgo the $40,000 silk Tabriz in favor of a more durable, serviceable, cleanable, $3,000 Indian (Indo) Tabriz. 

You get my point.

One last suggestion: Unless you know *specifically* what you are looking for and have some experience doing so, avoid on-line shopping for Oriental rugs.  It is always better to be able to feel and inspect them in person.

HAPPY SHOPPING!!

As always, If you would like to contact me...
You can reach me by email: Lynn@rugadvocate.com

Fringe Issues

Recently, I have received a number of calls from clients asking if we are able to stop their rugs from unraveling after they have cut the soiled, worn fringes off of the rugs. Unfortunately, this kind of fringe home remedy can be very costly! If the rug is not properly sewn or overcast to lock in the ends, the pile will simply slip out – either from vacuuming or just from walking across the cut ends. Depending on the tightness of the weave and the current condition of the unraveled ends, clients should expect to spend anywhere from $25 - $50 per linear foot to have this kind of quality hand repair done. Some rugs are well worth spending that kind of money on, some are not.

Why do the rugs unravel??

Hand knotted rugs have an inner foundation comprised of horizontal & vertical yarns. The horizontal yarns are called WEFTS (they run weft to right!) and the vertical yarns are called WARPS. These vertical warp yarns start as the fringe on one end and they run all the way through the rug and come out as the fringe on the opposite end. All of the pile on the face of the rug is knotted, row by row, on to these warp yarns. The horizontal wefts lock in those individual rows of pile knots while the knotted fringes help to hold the whole rug together.

What is the best way to deal with soiled, worn fringes??

This fringe had worn away and the rug began to unravel into the end border.
By overcasting the fringe end, no further unraveling should occur.

White cotton fringes show everything, while the wool face will hold pounds of dirt per square foot before showing soil. The same soil you see on the fringe is also in your rug. It’s just harder to see. Always try cleaning as a first remedy before taking out the scissors! After the rug has been cleaned, we will give your rug fringes a cleaning day all to themselves and, if you’d like us to, the scraggly ends can be trimmed up to appear more “even” without causing any damage to the rug.

You really, really just want those fringes gone??

If you are determined to remove the fringes, please let a professional handle the task for you. The ends can be sewn by hand to lock in the pile prior to cutting the fringes off. It should be stated that any repair that permanently alters the original rug (such as removing the fringes) WILL decrease the re-sale value. If you would like to keep the value for a future sale, but would still like to hide the fringes, a wide binding can be hand sewn to the face of the rug, turned under and then hand sewn to the back, enveloping the original fringes and tucking them underneath. Should the rug ever go up for sale, that binding can be removed, and the fringes will still be intact.

As always, I am happy to answer ALL of your rug questions! Please keep them coming!

Email: Lynn@rugadvocate.com

Area Rug Storage

For those of you who are part-timers here in Florida or for anyone thinking about taking up your area rugs for the hot summer months, the following guidelines may be useful to you…

Step  #1: Cleaning
To better protect your rugs from damage that may occur while you’re not looking, it is best to first clean your rugs. Proper, professional cleaning prior to storage will do a couple of things: it will remove dirt and oils that may lead to dry rot if left unclean and it will remove any potential moths or other insects that may be hiding in the fibers of your rug.

Step  #2: Wrapping
Where are you going to store the rugs? In an attic, basement or garage?  Behind the sofa? The location will determine how you should package the rugs.  A cool, dry place is best and a simple brown craft paper wrapping will usually suffice.  If an attic or garage is the only option, you should really consider wrapping in Ty-Vec –a breathable, water-resistant, hard to puncture paper.  If the rug is not being stored in your living space, I would further recommend the addition of moth flakes to the bundle.  It’s a little smelly, but the added protection from unwanted bugs and rodents is priceless!

Step #3: Rolling vs. Folding
If at all possible, avoid folding your area rugs for storage. Folding will put undue stress on the foundation and can contribute to cracks, holes and permanent creases, especially in the case of latex-backed rugs.  Rolling the rugs for storage is always best.

Step #4: Elevate!
Rugs in storage should not be placed on the floor or against the wall. If possible, get the bundles up on to a table or across a few chairs. This will help condensation from building up where the package meets a solid surface.  I don’t even have to tell you how this will help in the case of a flood, a real concern during hurricane season here in Florida!! Speaking of water damage…

Disasters happen.
Have a plan... Just in case.



Step #5: In Case of Emergency
Please have someone looking out for your property when you’re not there! Even if it’s just a neighbor who will call you in case of rising waters or obvious roof damage after a storm. Hopefully, you will be able to get those wet rugs to a professional cleaner soon! Leaving rugs rolled up while wet will increase your chances of mold and mildew damage as well as contributing to

run colors and rot.

As always, I am available to answer any questions you may have… Keep them coming!

You can reach me by email: Lynn@rugadvocate.com