Navajo Chief Blankets - An Abridged History Lesson



First Phase Cheif Blanket on the
Antiques Roadshow in Tuscon, AZ in 2002

I love the Antiques Roadshow.  In 2002, I saw what I still consider to be the BEST episode ever.  A humble looking man brought in an old blanket that he was curious about.  His grandmother had told him that it had been a gift to her foster parents from the legendary Kit Carson, so he believed it might have some value due to the lineage.  When the appraiser saw it for the first time, he nearly hyperventilated!  It was a pristine First Phase Ute Chief Blanket and he gave it a conservative value of $350,000 – Kit Carson or no.  Needless to say, the owner of the blanket was shocked.  To kick off my very own Trash or Treasure Traveling Rug Show, I decided that I should pay homage to the episode that planted the seed: Antiques Roadshow - First Phase Chief Blanket Surprise

An abridged history lesson:

Cheif Blanket as it
Should Be Worn

Blanket weaving was a learned skill.  The Navajo people picked it up from the Spanish settlers and from their neighbors, the Pueblos.  Eventually, their skill far surpassed that of their teachers and the “Classic Period” was born. Even though the Navajo didn't have chiefs of their own, they made blankets for the Ute, Cheyenne and Sioux chiefs to wear. They were expensive and were much lighter than animal hides. The quality was very impressive – almost waterproof because they were woven so tightly, and the bold stripes wrapped around the chief made him look quite imposing. 



This “First Phase” weaving period lasted from approximately 1750 until the internment of 8000 Navajo people at Fort Sumner in 1864.  The 300 mile “Long Walk of the Navajo” killed hundreds while on the journey and even more died in the prison camps. When they were finally released to their homelands four years later, the Navajo people discovered that their homes had been razed, their fields had been burned and their sheep had been killed.

Weaving a Third Phase Blanket
in a Modern Era

By about 1850, the Navajo weavers, aided by the westward trains and a more open trade philosophy, began a “Second Phase” of blanket weaving and then an overlapping “Third Phase.”  These later phases are differentiated from the First Phase by color, design motifs, the use of synthetic dyes, and wool quality. When large trading posts began to dot the region around 1890, the weavers segued from blankets to rugs.  Tourists would pay more money for an intricately patterned, quality rug.  Now there are many different types of Navajo rugs and they are typically valued at more money per square foot than even the finest Persian rugs.

The different Phases at a glance:

1^st Phase:
*basic striped pattern
*blue, black, brown, ivory

2^nd Phase:
*slightly more complicated striped pattern
*addition of red bars in the center and corners



3^rd Phase:
*complex wavy lines hidden in the striped pattern
*addition of serrated diamonds and triangles in the center and corners

If you would like more information on my Trash or Treasure Traveling Rug Show or if you have any questions for me to answer, I can be contacted by email: Lynn@rugadvocate.com





I’m no photographer, but…

I love a challenge as much as anyone else, but when customers or fellow rug cleaners send me photos of rugs for my opinion, I often (almost always!) have to ask for more or better images.  There isn’t a whole lot I can tell you about something I can’t see clearly.  I’m already handicapped by not being able to feel and handle the piece.  I thought it was time for me to lay down some ground rules, so…

This is what we professional Ruggies are looking for in any photo submitted for ID or consultation:

1:  A clear, well-lit image of the entire rug, showing all four corners.  The rug should have little to no furniture covering it.

2:  A clear, well-lit image of an 8”- 12” section of the back corner of the rug, showing BOTH the end & edge finish.  Include a coin of some kind (preferably a US Quarter) in the image both for scale and for clarity. If you can read the words on the coin clearly, the photo is a good one!

3:  A clear, well-lit image from both the front AND back side of any damaged areas or places of concern.  Please include in the image a ruler or open tape measure next to the damaged areas.  The ruler markings should be legible in the photo.

Several of the examples I’m going to share with you have come from the Facebook page “What Is My Rug?” where I am one of a handful of administrators.  The concept here is simple - you post photos of your “mystery” rug, and we will try to help you identify what it is.  Easy, right…?

NOTE: I want to stress that my intention is NOT to pick on anyone out there.  I simply wish to show examples, side-by-side, good and bad, so that you are able to see exactly what we’re looking for in a quality photo.  Once you see how best to photograph a rug, it will save you (and your chosen expert) tons of time and frustration down the road.

The "I HAVE EVERYTHING I NEED RIGHT HERE" photos:

This image shows all four corners clearly, is well lit, and there is no furniture covering any of the design elements.

This image clearly shows the end & edge finish, and the coin is legible.

The "IT'S NOT AWFUL BUT...MAYBE ANOTHER PHOTO IS CALLED FOR" photos:

Not much wrong with this photo other than it's taken from a little too far away for my liking.

This photo of the same rug leaves much to be desired.
While the edge finish is fairly visible, I'm left wondering what is going on across the fringe end.
It's too far away to really "read" the knot shape and style.
A close-up with a coin included for clarity would have helped a great deal.

The "I REALLY CAN'T TELL YOU MUCH." photos:

The tape measure is just too far away to count knots per square inch.

This one gives me a definite vertigo feeling.

Too close!!

Artistic shot.

Design motifs are so interchangeable between countries that you can't identify a rug based on that information alone.

I saved this next photo for last because it is my favorite example of what NOT to do. It has something for everyone! The lighting is bad, the photo is fuzzy, the rug is covered in furniture. Is it a 10 x 14 or a 5 x8? The photo was sent to a friend of mine for ID purposes because this rug may end up in court as part of an insurance fraud scam. It was the ONLY photo available and I could only scratch my head in wonder.

???

I hope my latest ramblings will help you with your future rug photo submissions! I look forward to seeing them either on Facebook or in my email. :)

As always, I can be contacted by email: Lynn@rugadvocate.com

American Sarouk - Painted Beauty



Typical American Sarouk

I am often asked what my own favorite type of rug is. I have several, but the most affordable and utilitarian of my faves is the American Sarouk. They are well made, pretty to look at and they have such an interesting story...

Mottled Dyes

Called “American Sarouk” because they were specifically designed for American tastes and woven in Northwest Iran, these rugs are easily recognizable for their rich red and blue colors and detached floral spray patterns.  They are known for their durability and lustrous feel.  

Original Yarn Color on the Back,
Over-Dyed Yarn Color on the Face

The American Sarouk was produced for export and shipped primarily to New York in the 1920’s and 1930’s by the boatload. They were welcomed for their quality and sheen, but sadly, not for their color.  The rugs were simply too orange.  The remedy for this was to build warehouses where workers would spend their days over-dying or painting the orange-red areas with a more popular burgundy-red.  It was an interesting and effective solution to a costly problem.  Nearly 100 years later, those dyes are still holding fast, but are beginning to show signs of mottling and breaking down. While this should not affect a rug’s value, it may appear unsightly to some.


I can be contacted by email: Lynn@rugadvocate.com

One Man's Trash

If you know where to send it, a fairly trashed rug can become a treasure!

About 10 years ago, this Hamadan came in to the shop so badly moth infested that when the rug owner dropped it on the floor, a cloud of live carpet moths flew out! 

Having no real attachment to the rug, the owner asked if I would dispose of it for her.  I was happy to oblige!  I “disposed” of it right onto the wash floor, where it was treated with a pesticide to help kill the various cycles of carpet moths (eggs, larvae, flying moths), cleaned on the front and back, hung in a heated drying room to dry, and then sent to the repairer for evaluation. 

Visible Moth Damage, Patched Corner



It was decided that the rug needed new edges, the fringe ends needed to be secured and the corner of the rug needed to be filled in.  Since the rug had no monetary value left to it after such extensive moth damage, we decided to simply patch the missing corner rather than re-weave it. 

Not New, But Very Useable!

The rug has been used in my own front hallway ever since!

The cost to do all of these repairs to this particular rug would have been too high for a regularly paying customer, but you should always have your textiles evaluated before disposing of them...just in case you are sitting (or standing!) on a treasure.

I can be contacted by email: Lynn@rugadvocate.com

Happy treasure hunting!!

Fringe Issues

Recently, I have received a number of calls from clients asking if we are able to stop their rugs from unraveling after they have cut the soiled, worn fringes off of the rugs. Unfortunately, this kind of fringe home remedy can be very costly! If the rug is not properly sewn or overcast to lock in the ends, the pile will simply slip out – either from vacuuming or just from walking across the cut ends. Depending on the tightness of the weave and the current condition of the unraveled ends, clients should expect to spend anywhere from $25 - $50 per linear foot to have this kind of quality hand repair done. Some rugs are well worth spending that kind of money on, some are not.

Why do the rugs unravel??

Hand knotted rugs have an inner foundation comprised of horizontal & vertical yarns. The horizontal yarns are called WEFTS (they run weft to right!) and the vertical yarns are called WARPS. These vertical warp yarns start as the fringe on one end and they run all the way through the rug and come out as the fringe on the opposite end. All of the pile on the face of the rug is knotted, row by row, on to these warp yarns. The horizontal wefts lock in those individual rows of pile knots while the knotted fringes help to hold the whole rug together.

What is the best way to deal with soiled, worn fringes??

This fringe had worn away and the rug began to unravel into the end border.
By overcasting the fringe end, no further unraveling should occur.

White cotton fringes show everything, while the wool face will hold pounds of dirt per square foot before showing soil. The same soil you see on the fringe is also in your rug. It’s just harder to see. Always try cleaning as a first remedy before taking out the scissors! After the rug has been cleaned, we will give your rug fringes a cleaning day all to themselves and, if you’d like us to, the scraggly ends can be trimmed up to appear more “even” without causing any damage to the rug.

You really, really just want those fringes gone??

If you are determined to remove the fringes, please let a professional handle the task for you. The ends can be sewn by hand to lock in the pile prior to cutting the fringes off. It should be stated that any repair that permanently alters the original rug (such as removing the fringes) WILL decrease the re-sale value. If you would like to keep the value for a future sale, but would still like to hide the fringes, a wide binding can be hand sewn to the face of the rug, turned under and then hand sewn to the back, enveloping the original fringes and tucking them underneath. Should the rug ever go up for sale, that binding can be removed, and the fringes will still be intact.

As always, I am happy to answer ALL of your rug questions! Please keep them coming!

Email: Lynn@rugadvocate.com